Coffee Beans of India, Varieties and Taste Profiles
Background
India has seen significant growth in cafés serving specialty coffee in recent times. I recently visited one such place in Pune and had a great cup of fruity, floral coffee brewed using a vacuum siphon. This was my first experience of an Indian coffee with such a flavour profile. Until then, most of the Indian coffee beans I had tried were earthy or nutty in nature. There was this pronounced feeling that any Indian coffee with a medium to dark roast will taste very similar for a given brewing method.
After this experience, I decided to understand the different coffees of India and how they get their flavour. Below is my understanding of the different types of coffee bean varieties available in India, their flavour profiles, and the associated processing that brings out these flavours in them.
Understanding Coffee Flavours
When we talk about coffee flavours, we’re referring to the complex blend of taste and aroma that defines each cup. These flavours range widely and are often misunderstood. It’s important to note that not all flavours are universally appealing. Individual preferences vary, and what one person loves, another might find less enjoyable.
Common coffee flavour descriptors:
- Acidity (brightness): The liveliness or sharpness of the coffee. It’s not about sourness but rather a crisp, tangy sensation similar to biting into a fresh apple.
- Body (mouthfeel): How heavy or light the coffee feels in your mouth. A coffee with a full body feels rich and heavy, like whole milk, while a light-bodied coffee feels more like water.
- Floral notes: Delicate, fragrant flavours reminiscent of flowers like jasmine or rose.
- Fruity notes: Tastes that evoke fruits, such as berries, citrus, tropical, or stone fruits, providing sweetness or tartness.
- Chocolatey notes: Flavours similar to cocoa or dark chocolate.
- Nutty notes: Subtle tastes like almonds, hazelnuts, or peanuts.
- Earthy notes: Flavours that remind you of soil or wood, often found in coffees from certain regions.
- Spicy notes: Hints of spices like cinnamon, clove, or pepper, often a result of inter-cropping.
- Bitterness: A sharp taste that can be pleasant in balance but overwhelming if too strong.
- Sweetness: A natural sweetness inherent in the coffee, not from added sugar.
The Coffee Bean Lifecycle
Growth and Harvesting
Coffee plants are cultivated in suitable climates with the right soil conditions. The environment in which coffee is grown dramatically affects its flavour.
In India
- Coffee is primarily grown in the southern states of Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu, in iron and aluminum-rich soils at elevations ranging from 700 to 1,600 meters.
- Karnataka produces about 70% of the country’s coffee.
- Regions like Baba Budangiri, Chikmagalur, and the Nilgiri Hills are renowned for high-quality Arabica.
- While the northeastern states also cultivate coffee, their main focus remains on tea.
- Shade-Grown Coffee:
- All coffee grown in India is shade-grown, commonly with two tiers of shade provided by different canopy trees.
- Shade-grown coffee tends to mature more slowly, allowing sugars to develop more fully.
- Shade-grown coffee plants are often more resilient to diseases and pests due to the balanced ecosystem.
- In contrast, sun-grown coffee often matures faster, leading to higher yields but can result in beans with less complex flavours.
- Inter-Cropping with Spices:
- Coffee plants are often inter-cropped with spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, clove, and nutmeg.
- The proximity of these spices can impart subtle aromatic notes to the coffee beans, adding complexity to the flavour profile.
- Potential Challenges:
- Pests and diseases like coffee leaf rust remain significant challenges for Arabica cultivation.
- Large efforts are dedicated to developing resistant bean types that are flavour-rich and can thrive in Indian soil conditions.
Altitude and Its Impact
- High Altitude (Above 1,000 meters):
- Bean Development:
- Slower maturation allows complex sugars to develop.
- Beans are denser and harder.
- Flavour Impact:
- Higher acidity with bright, vibrant flavours.
- Notes of florals and fruits.
- Varieties Grown: Arabica beans, including varieties like Kent, Selection 9, Sln.795, Sln.5B/S13, and Sln.6.
- Bean Development:
- Low Altitude (Below 1,000 meters):
- Bean Development:
- Faster maturation.
- Beans are less dense.
- Flavour Impact:
- Lower acidity with fuller body.
- Earthy and nutty flavours.
- Varieties Grown: Robusta beans, such as S.274.
- Bean Development:
Harvesting
- Harvesting involves picking ripe coffee cherries from the plants.
- Picking Methods:
- Selective Picking:
- Only the ripe cherries are picked individually by hand.
- Ensures optimal ripeness and higher quality.
- Labour-intensive and time-consuming.
- Strip Picking:
- All cherries, regardless of ripeness, are stripped from the branch at once.
- Faster and less labour-intensive.
- Results in a mix of ripe and unripe cherries, leading to inconsistent flavours.
- Selective Picking:
- Potential Issues:
- Overripe or Underripe Cherries: Picking cherries at the wrong time can lead to inconsistent flavours, with overripe cherries contributing to fermented tastes and underripe cherries adding sourness.
- Quality Control: Not carefully selecting ripe cherries can compromise the overall quality of the batch.
Processing
Processing removes the coffee beans from the cherries and prepares them for drying. These methods significantly impact the coffee’s final flavour profile.
1. Washed Process (Wet Process)
- Method:
- Removal of skin and pulp using water.
- Fermentation to remove mucilage.
- Beans are washed and then dried.
- Flavour Impact:
- Clean, bright flavours with pronounced acidity.
- Highlights the inherent characteristics of the bean.
- Potential Issues:
- Over-fermentation can cause sour flavours.
- Requires significant water resources.
2. Natural Process (Dry Process)
- Method:
- Whole cherries are dried under the sun.
- Once dried, the beans are hulled to remove the fruit.
- Flavour Impact:
- Sweet, fruity flavours with a heavier body.
- Adds complexity and depth.
- Potential Issues:
- Risk of inconsistent drying leading to mould.
- May develop off-flavours if not properly managed.
3. Honey Process (Pulped Natural)
- Method:
- Skin is removed, but some or all of the mucilage is left during drying.
- Variations include yellow, red, and black honey, depending on the amount of mucilage.
- Flavour Impact:
- Balanced acidity and sweetness.
- Syrupy mouthfeel.
- Potential Issues:
- Requires careful monitoring to prevent fermentation defects.
4. Anaerobic Fermentation
- Method:
- Coffee cherries or pulped beans are fermented in sealed tanks without oxygen.
- Environment encourages specific microorganisms that influence flavour.
- Flavour Impact:
- Intense, unique flavours with enhanced fruitiness and sweetness.
- Complex and sometimes exotic taste profiles.
- Potential Issues:
- Risk of developing undesirable flavours if not precisely controlled.
- Requires expertise and careful monitoring.
5. Carbonic Maceration
- Method:
- Whole coffee cherries are placed in sealed tanks filled with carbon dioxide.
- Mimics winemaking techniques.
- Flavour Impact:
- Vibrant, fruity notes with bright acidity.
- Can produce flavours not typically associated with coffee.
- Potential Issues:
- Complex process needing precise control over variables.
- Can be expensive and time-consuming.
6. Natural Maceration
- Method:
- Similar to natural processing but with extended fermentation.
- Cherries are fermented in open tanks or barrels before drying.
- Flavour Impact:
- Deep, wine-like flavours with rich fruitiness.
- Enhanced sweetness and body.
- Potential Issues:
- Improper Fermentation: High risk of over-fermentation and spoilage, leading to off-flavours like sourness or alcohol-like tastes.
- Contamination: Mould or bacterial growth during processing can ruin the beans.
7. Monsooning (Unique to India)
- Method:
- Monsooned Malabar: Green beans are exposed to monsoon winds and moisture in open warehouses for 12–16 weeks.
- Beans absorb moisture, swell, and change colour to pale gold.
- Flavour Impact:
- Low acidity with heavy body and a practically neutral pH balance.
- Unique earthy, musty, woody, and chocolatey aroma with notes of spice and nut.
- Smooth and mellow cup.
- Potential Issues:
- Musty flavours may not appeal to everyone.
- Requires specific climatic conditions and careful handling.
Drying and Milling
After processing, beans are dried and milled to remove the outer layers.
- Potential Issues:
- Uneven Drying: Can lead to mould growth or fermentation defects.
- Overdrying or Underdrying: Affects bean quality and shelf life.
Roasting
Roasting transforms green coffee beans into the aromatic brown beans we recognize. Roast levels affect not just flavour but also physical properties, impacting brewing techniques.
- Density Changes:
- Lighter Roasts: Beans are smaller, denser, and retain more moisture.
- Darker Roasts: Beans are larger, less dense, lighter in weight, with very little moisture.
- Impact on Brewing:
- Grind Size: Lighter roasts may require a finer grind due to higher density.
- Dosing: Dark roasts occupy more space; the same weight may fill your portafilter differently.
- Oil Migration:
- Light Roast: Minimal oils on the surface.
- Dark Roast:
- Oils migrate to the surface, giving a shiny appearance.
- Considerations
- Freshness: Surface oils can oxidize, leading to stale flavours.
- Equipment Maintenance: Oily beans may clog grinders and brewing equipment.
- Potential Issues:
- Over-Roasting: Results in burnt, bitter flavours.
- Under-Roasting: Leads to grassy, underdeveloped flavours.
Grinding and Brewing
The final stage involves grinding the roasted beans and brewing the coffee. This is a very large topic in itself, and I won’t go into a lot of details of it.
- Potential Issues:
- Incorrect Grind Size: Can cause over-extraction (bitterness) or under-extraction (sourness).
- Improper Brewing Techniques: Temperature and time affect flavour extraction.
Indian Coffee Bean Varieties
India cultivates several species of coffee, each offering distinct characteristics and flavours. The primary species grown are Arabica, Robusta, and, to a lesser extent, Liberica. Understanding the differences among these beans is essential for appreciating the diversity of Indian coffee.
Arabica Beans (Coffea arabica)
- Description:
- Arabica is the most widely consumed coffee species globally, known for its delicate flavour and lower caffeine content compared to Robusta.
- Thrives at higher altitudes between 900 and 2,000 meters.
- Characteristics:
- Taste: Mild acidity, complex flavours ranging from fruity to floral.
- Caffeine Content: Around 1.2% caffeine by weight.
- Bean Shape: Oval with a pronounced center crease.
India is renowned for its high-quality Arabica beans. Let’s explore some of the prominent varieties.
1. Kent
- Description:
- One of India’s oldest and most esteemed Arabica varieties, developed in the 1920s.
- Initially resistant to coffee leaf rust.
- Heritage:
- Selected from Typica plants.
- Growing Regions:
- Baba Budangiri, Chikmagalur, Coorg, Nilgiri Hills.
- Altitude: 1,000–1,600 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Mild acidity with floral aromas.
- Notes of citrus and a balanced body.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Best suited to light to medium roasts to preserve delicate flavours.
- Usage:
- Ideal for filter brewing methods to highlight nuanced flavours.
2. Sln.795 (Selection 795)
- Description:
- Developed in the 1940s by crossing Kent with S.288, a hybrid of Arabica and Liberica.
- High-yielding variety with rust resistance and good cup quality.
- Heritage:
- Cross between Kent and S.288.
- Growing Regions:
- Widely cultivated across South India.
- Altitude: 700–1,500 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Good acidity with notes of chocolate, caramel, and hints of spice.
- Medium to full body.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Versatile across roast levels.
- Usage:
- Suitable for espresso and milk-based drinks.
3. Cauvery (Catimor)
- Description:
- Also known as Catimor; developed as a rust-resistant variety.
- Heritage:
- A cross between Caturra (a mutation of Bourbon) and Hybrido-de-Timor.
- Growing Regions:
- Karnataka, Tamil Nadu.
- Altitude: 600–1,200 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Moderate acidity with sweet notes.
- Flavours of berries, chocolate, and sometimes a hint of spice.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Medium roasts highlight its balance of body and flavour.
- Usage:
- Good for both espresso and filter coffee.
4. Selection 9 (Sln.9)
- Description:
- Award-winning variety with excellent cup quality.
- Winner of the Fine Cup Award for best Arabica at the 2002 Flavour of India – Cupping Competition.
- Heritage:
- Hybrid of Tafarikela (an Ethiopian Arabica variety) and Hybrido-de-Timor.
- Growing Regions:
- Chikmagalur, Coorg.
- Altitude: 1,000–1,600 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Bright acidity with floral and fruity notes.
- Hints of jasmine and citrus.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Light roasts best showcase its vibrant flavours.
- Usage:
- Perfect for pour-over and specialty brewing methods.
5. Sln.5B (S13)
- Description:
- Hybrid variety developed for disease resistance and quality.
- Heritage:
- Cross between S.288 and Kent.
- Growing Regions:
- Karnataka, Tamil Nadu.
- Altitude: 800–1,500 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Balanced acidity with sweet notes.
- Flavours of berries and milk chocolate.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Light to medium roasts highlight its sweetness.
- Usage:
- Suitable for both espresso and filter coffee.
6. Sln.6
- Description:
- Developed for improved yield, rust resistance, and quality.
- Heritage:
- Cross between S.288 and S.26.
- Growing Regions:
- Kerala, Karnataka.
- Altitude: 900–1,600 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Mild acidity with nutty and spice notes.
- Smooth body.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Medium roasts enhance its body and flavour.
- Usage:
- Versatile; suitable for various brewing methods.
7. Mysore Nuggets Extra Bold
- Description:
- A premium grade of Arabica beans from Karnataka.
- Beans are extra-large (screen size 19), uniform, and known for their superior quality.
- Growing Regions:
- Chikmagalur, Bababudangiri, Coorg.
- Altitude: 1,200–1,600 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Rich aroma with moderate acidity.
- Notes of chocolate, sweet-toned spicy flavours, and a hint of herbs.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Medium to dark roasts develop its complexity.
- Usage:
- Excellent for espresso and drip coffee.
Robusta Beans (Coffea canephora)
- Description:
- Robusta beans are known for their hardiness and ability to grow at lower altitudes and higher temperatures.
- Often used in blends to add body and crema, especially in espressos.
- Characteristics:
- Taste: Strong, full-bodied with earthy flavours and higher bitterness.
- Caffeine Content: Around 2.2% caffeine by weight, higher than Arabica.
- Bean Shape: Rounder and smaller than Arabica beans.
India produces some high-quality Robusta beans. Here are the notable varieties.
1. S.274
- Description:
- Popular Indian Robusta variety known for its hardiness and high yield.
- Growing Regions:
- Coorg, Wayanad, Chikmagalur.
- Altitude: Up to 1,000 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Full body with earthy tones.
- Notes of dark chocolate and spice.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Handles dark roasts well.
- Usage:
- Common in espresso blends and South Indian filter coffee.
2. Robusta Kaapi Royale
- Description:
- Premium grade Robusta beans; “Kaapi” is South Indian for coffee.
- Beans are large, even-sized, and of superior quality.
- Growing Regions:
- Similar regions as S.274.
- Altitude: Up to 1,000 meters.
- Flavour Profile:
- Smooth with lower acidity.
- Hints of chocolate, nuts, and a lingering aftertaste.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Dark roasts bring out depth, but care is needed to avoid excessive bitterness.
- Usage:
- Enhances crema in espresso; used in high-quality blends.
Liberica Beans (Coffea liberica)
- Description:
- Liberica beans are larger than Arabica and Robusta beans and have a unique, bold flavour profile.
- Grown in limited quantities in India, primarily in certain regions of Kerala.
- Characteristics:
- Taste: Distinct woody and smoky notes with a full body.
- Caffeine Content: Similar to Arabica.
- Bean Shape: Large and irregular.
- Growing Regions:
- Parts of Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
- Varieties:
- Specific varieties are less defined due to limited cultivation.
- Flavour Profile:
- Unique flavour with woody, smoky notes.
- Full body with hints of floral and fruity undertones.
- Usage:
- Often used in blends to add complexity.
- Due to its strong flavour, it is sometimes blended with Arabica and Robusta beans.
Excelsa Beans (Coffea liberica var. dewevrei)
- Description:
- Once considered a separate species, Excelsa is now classified as a variety of Liberica.
- Grown very limitedly in India.
- Characteristics:
- Taste: Tart and fruity notes with a complex profile.
- Bean Shape: Similar to Liberica but smaller.
- Growing Regions:
- Rare in India; if available, it’s usually from experimental or specialty farms.
- Usage:
- Used in specialty blends to add depth and complexity.
Chicory Additions
Chicory is a significant component of traditional South Indian coffee culture.
- Description:
- Chicory is a perennial plant whose roots are roasted, ground, and used as a coffee additive or substitute.
- It extends the coffee, adds body, and introduces unique flavour characteristics.
- Why Add Chicory?
- Extends the coffee supply and adds depth to the flavour.
- Contributes to a thicker mouthfeel and a slight bitterness.
- Growing Regions:
- In India, chicory is cultivated in regions like Uttar Pradesh and Gujarat.
- Flavour Profile:
- Roasted and nutty flavours similar to dark toast or roasted nuts.
- Adds slight bitterness that’s earthy and herbal.
- Subtle sweetness that balances the bitter notes.
- Usage:
- Blended with coffee in proportions ranging from 10% to 30% chicory.
- Enhances body and adds a unique flavour to the coffee.
- Roasting Considerations:
- Chicory roots are roasted until dark to develop deep flavours.
- Brewing Considerations:
- Blends containing chicory are often brewed using the traditional South Indian filter method.
- Typically enjoyed with milk and sweeteners to balance the robust flavours.
Practical Recommendations
To help you navigate the diverse world of Indian coffee, here are some practical tips based on your brewing preferences and desired flavours.
For South Indian Filter Coffee Lovers
- Recommended Beans:
- Blend of Arabica and Robusta: Combine Sln.795 (Arabica) with S.274 or Robusta Kaapi Royale (Robusta).
- Blend with chicory, with coffee constituting 80–90% and chicory 10–20%. The chicory’s slight bitterness and body contribute to the traditional flavour.
- Traditionally, jaggery or honey were used as sweeteners, but white sugar has been used since the mid-1900s.
- Roast Level:
- Medium to dark roast enhances body and richness.
- Expected Flavours:
- Bold, full-bodied cup with notes of chocolate and spice.
- Additional Tips:
- Use freshly ground coffee suitable for the South Indian filter.
- Use a traditional South Indian filter for an authentic experience.
For Espresso Enthusiasts
- Recommended Beans:
- Sln.795 or Sln.6 for balanced flavours.
- Add Robusta Kaapi Royale for crema and intensity.
- Monsooned Malabar for a unique and bold flavour.
- Roast Level:
- Medium to dark roast for depth and balance.
- Medium roast for Monsooned Malabar to maintain balance between body and flavour.
- Expected Flavours:
- Rich crema with notes of chocolate, nuts, and a smooth finish.
- Additional Tips:
- Ensure a fine grind and proper tamping for optimal extraction.
- The distinct flavour of Monsooned Malabar or Robusta Kaapi Royale may be an acquired taste; try blending with other beans to adjust intensity.
For Those Seeking Fruity and Floral Notes
- Recommended Beans:
- Selection 9 (Sln.9) or Kent or Sln.13.
- Processing Method:
- Look for beans processed using Natural, Carbonic Maceration, or Anaerobic Fermentation methods.
- Roast Level:
- Light to medium roast to preserve delicate flavours.
- Expected Flavours:
- Bright acidity with flavours of citrus, berries, and floral aromas.
- Brewing Methods:
- Ideal for pour-over, AeroPress, or siphon brewing.
For Smooth and Balanced Cups
- Recommended Beans:
- Cauvery (Catimor) or Sln.6.
- Roast Level:
- Medium roast for balance.
- Expected Flavours:
- Mild acidity, hints of chocolate and nuts, and a smooth body.
- Brewing Methods:
- Drip coffee makers, Chemex, or siphon.
General Tips
- Freshness is Key: Use freshly roasted beans and grind just before brewing.
- Water Quality Matters: Use filtered water to prevent off-flavours.
- Adjust Brewing Variables: Modify grind size, water temperature, and brew time to taste.
Comparison with Coffees from Other Regions
While Indian coffees have unique qualities, there are aspects that some coffee enthusiasts might find less appealing compared to coffees from other regions:
-
Acidity Levels:
- Indian Coffees: Generally have lower acidity compared to African or Central American coffees.
- Impact: Might be perceived as less vibrant or lacking brightness.
-
Flavour Complexity:
- Indian Coffees: Often present earthy, spicy notes with full body.
- Impact: May lack the fruity or floral complexity found in Ethiopian or Colombian coffees.
-
Processing Methods:
- Monsooned Coffees: Unique to India, offering distinctive flavours.
- Impact: The musty, woody notes of monsooned coffees might not appeal to those preferring cleaner flavour profiles.
-
Roasting Preferences:
- India: Tendency towards dark roasts, resulting in bolder, sometimes bitter flavours.
- Impact: Can overshadow the intrinsic characteristics of the beans.
-
Use in Blends:
- Indian Robusta is often used in espresso blends for crema and body.
- Impact: On its own, Robusta’s higher bitterness and lower acidity may be less desirable for some.
-
Examples:
- South Indian Filter Coffee:
- Uses dark-roasted coffee, often blended with chicory.
- Might be too strong or bitter for those accustomed to lighter roasts.
- Monsooned Malabar:
- While prized for its unique profile, the earthy and musty flavours can be off-putting to some.
- South Indian Filter Coffee:
Final Thoughts
- By embracing the unique characteristics of Indian coffee and tailoring your brewing to suit, you can enjoy a truly satisfying and personalized coffee experience.
- Explore and Experiment: Don’t hesitate to try different beans, roast levels, and brewing methods.
- Appreciate the Craft: Recognize the effort at each stage of the coffee’s journey.
While this guide reflects my personal exploration and understanding of Indian coffee. I hope it inspires you to embark on your own coffee adventure!
References
- Coffeeboard India: regions
- Coffeeboard India: statistics
- Coffee in India Wikipedia
- Multiple blogs from speciality roasters of India
- The coffee I had Kokoro Kensho SLN 13, SLN 9, SLN 795
- The cafe in Pune Goddam speciality coffee